For most winemakers, learning their job is a series of progressions. They learn to seek out good vineyards and determine the precise time to pick. They develop a fermentation strategy, deal with labor issues and broken machinery and work long hours to get through crush. They learn to protect their wine from lurking microbes, how to stabilize their product and determine whether or not to filter their wine. Finally, the wine is done, and it is good. Then winemakers learn that they need to select ...