Video by艾米丽·科恩·伊巴尼斯（Emily CohenIbañez） ,特拉维斯·曼农（Travis Mannon）
Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo,the Mexican general who colonized California’s Sonoma County, remains an admired figure to this day. A local authority erected a纪念碑to the general as recently as 2017. The darker side of this history is typically被忽视的。
1838年，根据记录, Vallejo executed 35 of his Indigenous workers as suspected cattle thieves. When asmallpox epidemic他袭击了该地区，他接种了自己的家人，但留下了约2,000名本土工人，可能是Wappo，Southern Pomo和Miwok Coast Miwok人民，死于未接种疫苗。
Today, with its fame as one of the world’s most important wine-producing regions, Sonoma County supports a tourism industry centered on grape growers’ connections to the rolling land — a landscape that, over the last few years, has been increasingly consumed by wildfires. After a particularly brutal fire season last year, lifestyle杂志和national报纸alike expressed concerns about the local industry and the impact of wildfire smoke on the wine.
Once again, Indigenous workers were often遗漏。主要来自墨西哥地区，工人在烟熏疏散区劳作，努力获得医疗保健，并在大火使工作变得不可能时没有政府支持。
On a cool autumn day last month, farmworkers inserted themselves into the narrative. Tourists were streaming into Simi Winery to immerse themselves in the storied winery’s Harvest Celebration — at $145 for a ticket, a meal, and, of course, wine pairings. As the well-heeled attendees arrived, a group of farmworkers, their families, and supporters picketed, chanting and playing drums.
The price tag for the meal, according to North Bay Jobs With Justice, which helped organize the protest, roughly matches what a farmworker gets paid for collecting 1 ton of grapes.
The protest organizers, led by workers, had been trying to meet with Simi Winery’s owners since September, but the winemakers never replied. No mom and pop shop, Simi Winery is owned by one of the largest alcohol companies in the world, Constellation Brands, a财富500强公司价值440亿美元其中包括美国投资组合中的Modelo Especial和Corona啤酒以及其他受欢迎的品牌。
The farmworkers had sought to invite Simi — as well as more than 30 other local wine-related businesses — to commit to meeting five demands tailored to the needs of fire-stricken workers.
工人正在为灾难保险而战，以弥补工资损失，因为工资太危险而无法工作，以及为高风险转移的危险付费 - 例如酿酒厂granted waiversto allow workers to labor in evacuation zones. The workers also want community safety observers to be allowed into the evacuation zones to assure that safety standards are upheld and for safety information to be distributed in Indigenous languages. Finally, they want clean bathrooms and clean water available even when the fires are burning nearby.
In response to The Intercept’s questions about the workers’ demands, Alex Wagner, vice president of communications for Constellation Brands said in a statement that the company has a “long history of providing competitive pay and benefits, a safe and sanitary workplace, and a culture where team members feel welcome, valued and respected.”
农场工人无法与索诺玛（Sonoma）一些最大的酿酒师吸引观众，因此在西米酒庄（Simi Winery）求助于他们的纠察队 - 希望将他们的故事放在酿酒厂的面前，这可能会给雇主带来压力。
Today, the idyllic索诺玛县的经历是，随着附近的大火燃烧，吸入有毒烟雾的工人使游客涌入。
玛丽亚·萨利纳斯Chatino雇农来回m the Oaxaca region of Mexico, described what harvest season is like now. “You’re working and you’re smelling the toxic smoke,” she said. “And you don’t want to protect yourself with the masks, because it’s too hot, so you’re breathing all of this. After work, you feel like sneezing and spitting. The saliva is black. If this is just what you’re spitting, how must it be inside? What about your lungs?”
萨利纳斯（Salinas）与野火组织（Wildfire）组织为领导者，与土著工人团体Movimiento Cultural de launiónIndígena进行了哮喘，这使烟雾恶化了：“我必须不断使用我的吸入器。”
Last spring, organizers among the farmworkers conducted a survey of about 100 colleagues to identify demands. The results showed that, even without the wildfires, 61 percent of respondents earned less than $2,500 a month and 45 percent said they were underpaid for the work they did. Four out of five respondents said the pay was not enough to support their families, and fewer than a quarter had employer-provided health insurance.
The survey elucidated the specifics behind a common dynamic among the farmworkers: They can’t afford not to work, even when conditions become unsafe.
北湾的司法工作指出，联邦政府在2020年提供6300万美元在与索诺玛县酿酒厂的与火灾相关的保险付款中，但没有为工作土地的人们提供可比的支持。许多工人没有证件，并且没有资格参加大多数收入替代计划。
“We don’t have protection,” said Salinas. ”We can’t count on anyone to come tell us, ‘If you don’t have a job, take this for the rent.’”
农场工人的斗争并不是调查所讲的唯一故事。许多人评论了他们与土地的联系。
“It is a privilege to work the land and experience every part of nature. It is giving life to the world we live in,” said one worker. Another said, “My father taught me to work and harvest from the land. It is very sacred.”
许多农场工人来自墨西哥的农村地区，讲土著语言，例如Triqui，Chatino，Mixteco或Maya。十分之九的受访者说，他们因说母语而受到歧视。
The workers’ demand for safety information to be available in Indigenous languages speaks to something deeper than physical security. In 2000, the Mexican governmentclassifiedsome dialects of Salinas’s first language, Chatino, as endangered.
“作为一个讲我自己的语言的土著女人，我确实为讲话感到自豪。我觉得这是我拥有的最有价值的事情，”萨利纳斯用西班牙语（她的第二语言）说。她的梦想是，她的人民的语言将传递给Chatino的孩子。
As the harvestseason closes, no Sonoma County winery, grape grower, farm labor contractor, or vineyard management company has agreed to the campaign’s demands, though a few businesses have been meeting with organizers.
“On the whole, we’ve not been received with open arms with these demands,” said Davin Cardenas, the organizing director at North Bay Jobs With Justice.
Meanwhile, Simi has been doing its own Sonoma County storytelling with a big-budgetbrand campaigncentered on its place in the area’s history.视频由奥斯卡提名的摄影师拍摄的，讲述了伊莎贝尔·西米（Isabelle Simi）在1904年在18岁那年如何接管了这家酿酒厂，因为她的父亲和叔叔从意大利迁移到建立了酿酒厂，都去世了。
该视频描绘了西米（Simi）通过毅力和决心单独消除自己并单独收获葡萄 - 看不到工人。根据视频，她在禁酒期间就英勇地保持了酿酒厂的漂浮方式，并在1934年开设了索诺玛县的第一个品尝室，这是社区所有成员都可以聚集的空间。
As part of the campaign, Simi has partnered with actor Reese Witherspoon’s book club. “Together, these female-led brands will spotlight diverse narratives and deepen connections within the community by offering readers and drinkers more ways to engage with these stories and each other,” the executive vice president of Constellation Brands said in a陈述。
工人现在邀请Simi社区聚焦不同的叙述。正如萨利纳斯（Salinas）所说，“使这个梦想成为可能的人是工人；我们很努力。和我们 - 我们什么时候享受这个？”
