Different wine-producing countries are often associated with a particular grape, and that grape somehow represents the attitude of the people. In Germany, the grape is Riesling, which is crisp, clean and rigorously classified according to sugar content. France has Burgundy/Pinot Noir: beguiling, fickle and stubborn. Argentina has Malbec, an easy-going, friendly wine that is undemanding on the bank account. America’s grape has to be Zinfandel, with its brash, in-your-face fruit and sometim...