Many of the new and recently renovated visitor centers in Napa and Sonoma counties want to go where no tasting room has gone before. They want to amp up the visitor experience, in most cases by scaling it down. They want to demystify the connection between food and wine while offering component tastings, library wines, "cellar gems," barrel samples and small, specialized seminars. They want to create a branding experience that increases consumer loyalty. They want to get cozy.And they want to pump up the bottom line.Among this group, the days of free pours are gone as the focus tightens on "real customers" and profitability. Production tours are often characterized as yesterday's news. ("Everyone has steel tanks," says Matt Wood, hosp...