I think my wines are pretty good—they certainly should be after 58 vintages. As I approached the 2019 harvest, I wasn’t expecting to discover anything that would completely up my game. And yet, not one, but eight innovations arrived that year, which completely altered the prospects for small wineries like mine. There are more than 10,500 bonded wineries in the United States. If we exclude the 72 giants that dominate national distribution, the average winery is about 2,000 cases, a...