Pamela Elliott remembers the early days of wine in New Zealand. "My father had a general store and one of the first licenses to sell wine on Waiheke in the early 1950s," she recalls. "His display bottles had to be filled with colored water, as it was unacceptable to show the actual alcoholic beverage in public." Doreen Burns, Pamela's mother, says that the wine came in 44-gallon drums, and was limited to "ghastly port and sherry" made locally. Little d...