I like to harken back to the very first WBM article I wrote in December 2005 entitled “Taming Fruit Variability.” I chose that topic back then because I felt that variability in the vineyard was the enemy of fine wine quality. I continue to believe that to this day and find that the best vineyards are farmed meticulously, with every vine assessed as to its capacity, and pruning, thinning, irrigation and fertilization adjusted to that fine a detail. That is fine for the 1 percent or s...