Aging wine in barrels is a more complex subject than most non-winemakers appreciate. Barrels are expensive. Taking care of them is a labor-intensive nuisance to winemakers and cellar crew. They are difficult to clean and impossible to sterilize. Barrels contaminated with undesirable microorganisms should be removed from the winery and destroyed. Given all the expense and hassle, why would any sane winemaker use barrels at all? The answer, of course, is that winemakers have historically found ...