意大利的莱克斯(Lecce) - 餐厅的客人在厨房准备了一个称为“让我们的柑橘味清洁剂”时,用发酵的意大利乳清干酪泡芙和一片薄薄的鱼皮形成了鱼皮的开胃菜和薄薄的鱼皮。厨师虔诚地将一个淡橙色的泡沫挤进了厨师张开的嘴里的陶瓷铸件中,服务员指示食客将其舔出来。
“这个想法是最初咬人而不是一见钟情,”厨师和嘴巴模特弗洛里亚诺·佩莱格里诺(Floriano Pellegrino)站在狭窄的厨房里时说道兄弟,是意大利南部城市莱克斯(Lecce)唯一的米其林星级餐厅。“应该很有趣。”
But this month, the joke turned out to be on Mr. Pellegrino, who became an object of global ridicule when a travel blogger’s epically bad review of an October dinner at兄弟,厨师的口感吻,传播开来。
“There was nothing even close to an actual meal served,”杰拉尔丁派鲁特写了在她的博客上,詹姆斯·比尔德(James Beard)屡获殊荣的作家嘲笑“水泥细胞”装饰的《无处不在者》中,敲打了服务器的介绍“ rancid意大利乳清干酪”,并指责餐厅无视丈夫的嘴唇膨胀时忽略过敏限制。
Top restaurant critics jumped on the takedown bandwagon, championing a democratic revolt against a Michelin-starred restaurant withan expensive tasting menu小部分和自负的堆。
佩莱格里诺先生的屈服于响应, which included drawings of men on horses and a three-page explanation of his cutting-edge approach to dining (“What is a chef? What is a client? What is good taste? What looks beautiful? What is a man on a horse?”) only invited more scorn.
Former kitchen staff came从木制品中to accuse him of mistreatment and breaking promises, of punishing them by demanding push-ups, and of displaying a general pattern of bullying behavior. (“Not everything you hear is true,” Mr. Pellegrino said, when asked about the accusations. “Especially in this moment, we’re dealing with baseless rumors.” )
CNN, The Washington Post and even“与史蒂芬·科尔伯特的后期演出”在一个已经成熟的讽刺世界的抽象世界中,无法抗拒一个容易的目标。DeRuiter女士在当下抓住了社交媒体帖子,国家媒体露面和think piece about what it all meant.
在最近的一个下午,在他的极简主义餐厅,现年31岁的佩莱格里诺先生也试图理解他与著名的主厨和女友,26岁的女友伊莎贝拉·波特(IsabellaPotì),他期待他们的第一个孩子。
“It’s surreal,” Mr. Pellegrino said as another email from America ordering a cast of his mouth popped up on his phone. The casts, at 58 euros apiece, had sold out, but scores more were pre-ordered and their supplier rushed to keep up. Following the suggestion of two American interns in the restaurant’s marketing department, the couple will soon launch a Let’s Make Out无感感代币或nft,基于区块链的收藏品that is all the rage in the art world.
“This is a big opportunity,” he said, adding that the review “only gave us publicity.”
该宣传为餐厅世界提供了什么并不是什么新鲜事物。名人厨师星座与电视评级和各种协同作用一样重要,它是实质性或寄托。评论家和受批评都可以从病毒盘中受益的见解并不是非凡的。
That is especially true ofMr. Pellegrino和波特女士,他们认为自己是本地萨伦托领土风味的前卫使节,并且恰好是不懈的自我宣传者和毫不掩饰的骗子 - 相当于意大利统治的影响者夫妇的烹饪效果费德斯和多媒体强国Chiara Ferragni.
波特女士’s culinary chops and cheek bones (“Isabella has this face,” Mr. Pellegrino noted) haveattracted时尚杂志和耐克的合作。While she is a polyglot, the chiseled Mr. Pellegrino doesn’t really speak English. But he does say “Hey, bro” to just about everyone, is inked with some questionable Bros-centric tattoos that some would regard as misogynistic and loves the F-word so much that he used it on the boxes of his Christmas panettones.
They have promotional deals with sunglass companies, ice cream bars, their own rugby team and a clothing brand. They have filmed videos for their menus as Adam and Eve, clad only in strategically placed leaves. A video for Bros’ summer 2021 menu came with an epilepsy warning.
“为什么美国厨师只有厨师?”佩莱格里诺先生说。“如果我能做其他事情,为什么只做饭?”
“他们做得很好,”意大利名人厨师亚历山德罗·博尔格斯(Alessandro Borghese)说,他在他受欢迎的电视节目之一上对餐馆进行评分,并钦佩这对夫妇的企业家主义,即使不一定是他们的烹饪品牌。他说,这种情况可能是餐厅的“赢家”。“也许这将扩大他们的业务,然后我们将在世界各地看到20个兄弟。”
But Mr. Pellegrino can’t help harboring raw feelings about the review. He mused about whether the premillennial age of the diners made them too old-fashioned for his food and said the privileged foreigners had no interest in his interpretation of Lecce’s traditional dishes, such as his rancid take on “strong ricotta.”
佩莱格里诺先生说:“他们玩得很开心,”他补充说,如果该党在当地的trattoria中采取了同样的行动,“他们会在后面的踢球”。
Informed of the accusation of rudeness, Ms. DeRuiter was appalled. “The attempts by the chefs of Bros’ to blame their clientele for the quality of the service received,” she wrote in an email, “is the antithesis of what makes a good restaurant.”
误解了杰作或糟糕的饭菜,当之无愧的挖掘或斧头工作,很明显,佩莱格里诺先生意外地出现了自我痴迷的高级美食厨师的最终讽刺漫画。甚至超过his Michelin star,这标志着他走了多远。
Mr. Pellegrino lives with Ms. Potì in nearby Scorrano, where he was born and raised and where the authorities recently disbanded city hall for its mafia infiltration. His father “had problems with the law,” he said, and his mother prepared typical dishes like horse meat in the kitchen of the family farm and农业旅馆酒店, where he rode horses with his two little brothers. She told them that one would be a cop, the other a crook. He insisted he would be “a chef with a chain of restaurants.”
Mr. Pellegrino said that culinary dream helped him avoid the criminality that captured many of his friends, but so did the discipline he learned playing rugby. Bros’ restaurant now has its own兄弟Rugby Club,这将当地球员带入厨房,餐厅的外国实习生和员工,有时显然不情愿地进入健身房并进入球场。
“Team spirit,” he said.
16岁时,佩莱格里诺先生跟随他的母亲在度假村小镇奥特兰托(Otranto)的一家餐厅工作。当他睡在里面时,她把他拖到耳边,从橄榄球盒子里,谴责“完成你开始的东西”。他坚持烹饪,但在18岁时与父母总共摔倒了。担心他与错误的人群陷入了困境,他决定自己股权。
“就像武士一样,”他说。
他向米兰以外的著名厨师伊拉里奥·文奇格拉(Ilario Vinciguerra)发送了一条Facebook消息,他恳求在厨房里占有一席之地。
Vinciguerra先生说:“您必须将re绳保持在他身上,否则他像一匹马一样踢了他。他说:“也许成熟,他将了解您必须用脚在地面上创造。”
Mr. Vinciguerra introduced Mr. Pellegrino to Martín Berasategui, the celebrated Basque chef with three Michelin stars.
“It was like adoption by a new father,” Mr. Pellegrino said of his mentor. “I was a mess and he set me straight.”
2014年,佩莱格里诺(Pellegrino)先生在奥特兰托(Otranto)遇到了波特女士,在那里他正在管理一家餐厅赚钱以资助国外的培训。在接下来的几年中,他在世界上一些最著名的餐馆训练fixtures在意大利美食的后起之秀清单上。
在2015年,他founded Bros’与他的两个兄弟一起,尽管他们很快决定在兄弟厨房里有太多的佩莱格里诺兄弟,并采取了单独的方式。
“The idea was mine,” said Mr. Pellegrino, adding that his siblings found it difficult to share in his singular vision, though both have accomplished careers and this week reunited to cook at atechno dance party为橄榄球俱乐部筹集资金。
但是,所有这些兄弟品牌计划 - 服装,新餐厅,运动队 - 都挂在一个兄弟的米其林之星上。午餐前,他们将工作人员聚集在他们的研究厨房中,其中他所谓的“兄弟之吻”和其他菜肴被概念性的口号“ rancid”“氧化”“孩子”。当食客们越过垫子上读着“欢迎来到布罗斯兰”时,佩莱格里诺先生利用他最喜欢的专家要求提供完美的服务。他的团队hu缩了一下。
“ 1、2、3,”他们喊道。“做兄弟!”
帖子嘴霉和米其林星星:厨师在史诗般的撤离后成名首先出现纽约时报.