Michelin Unexpectedly Adds Yellow Rose and Five Other Restaurants to New York Guide

Michelin, the world’s oldest and most recognizable restaurant guide, recentlyannounced通过揭示全年的一些纽约选择，与每年揭示其一些纽约选择，从而开始破坏传统。此举清楚地表明，红色指南正在寻找在竞争性的食品媒体景观中保持相关方法的方法，其中几乎每天的每一天都会出现新的评论，而不是每年一次。

这guide’s anonymous inspectors kicked off the new policy by unveiling six new selections:Les Trois Chevaux, chef Angie Mar’s pricey ode to haute French fare;Le Fanfare, an Italian-ish restaurant in Greenpoint;Takeda，上西侧的Omakase店；Torien，Yoshiteru Ikegawa的出色Yakitori景点；Yellow Rose，在东村备受赞誉的得克萨斯州;和63 Clinton, a sub-$100 set menu venue from Samuel Clonts and Raymond Trinh.

But there’s a catch: Michelin isn’t actually telling us whether the venues in question are receiving single stars, multiple stars, or zero stars, nor is the guide revealing its围嘴gourlist, its annual nod to more affordable venues. Michelin is simply stating that the restaurants are being included in its yearly guide, while adding that “some featured restaurants” could receive either Bibs or stars in the future. The inspectors also added a few quick “reviews” about the culinary offerings at each venue in a downloadable Michelin smartphone app. Those reviews are brief.

Here’s how Gwendal Poullennec, international director of the Michelin Guides, announced the changes in a press release: “As the restaurant industry continues to face unprecedented challenges and uncertainties, we hope that these regular revelations and updates to the selection throughout the year will provide opportunities to highlight the profession and invite everyone to discover and support the restaurants around them.”

What Michelin is doing here is a good thing. The move is, for now at least, helping the guide de-center its skewed awards process, which is in need of a serious overhaul. The inspectors, after all, have a habit of overlooking venues that aren’t European, American, Japanese, or Korean in their starred selections.

相反有利于精选机构的符号。数十名餐厅评论家将他们的星星置于temporary holdduring the pandemic; Eater has permanentlydroppedits starred system.

That said, allow me to offer four quick suggestions as to how Michelin might implement this new policy with more panache.

1. 鉴于米其林对某些美食的明显偏爱，如果所有六家新餐厅都不属于欧洲裔美国人类别，那将会更有生产力 - 尽管向指南的道具添加了诸如黄色玫瑰之类的德克萨斯州餐厅。这纽约guide, somewhat improbably, has no starred Indian, Vietnamese, Thai, regional Chinese, or African restaurants.
2. 据报道，由于检查员做了很多饮食，而且由于他们肯定会与同事在选择的选择中进行激烈的辩论，因此，如果他们所谓的评论实际上是评论，而不是120字的胶囊文章，那将是很好的只不过是描述氛围并列出了一些菜肴。
3. 也许米其林可能会发现超过两个景点可以突出一些不是品尝菜单场所？这不是大多数人定期吃饭的方式。
4. 即使米其林已经表示将在一年中推出更多选择，但总体上还没有找到超过六个场所，尤其是考虑到选择的偏向于两人的价格约为300美元或更多的场所 - 黄色玫瑰和Le Fanfare。？

Michelin is taking a small step in the right direction, though it seems for now that it’s more interested in keeping its classic hierarchies in place than committing to any meaningful change in terms of broadening the scope of restaurants it chooses to champion. Or as a restaurant critic might say: the idea is nice; the execution needs work.