大师侍酒师计划过时

Fred Dame is the highest-profile casualty of the cleanout at the Court of Master Sommeliers America.
© Forgotten Man Films|Fred Dame is the highest-profile casualty of the cleanout at the Court of Master Sommeliers America.
随着美国大师侍酒师法院的更多离开,W. Blake Grayasks why keep it?
By W. Blake Gray | Posted Friday, 19-Nov-2021

当我们俩都在喝酒时,我很高兴在制片人拜访时被一位侍酒师送来葡萄酒。(大师侍酒师倒完美!)但是我从未在餐厅里经历过。

的whole concept of a Master Sommelier is flawed, because the first thing most of them do upon earning the pin is get a job where they don't have to actually be a sommelier anymore.

Related stories:
Farewell to the Cult of the Somm
Chaos Reigns at Scandal-hit Somms' Court
大师索姆斯法院继续爆炸

yesterday the Court of Master Sommeliers announced that, after an investigation of sexual harassment allegations, it is taking the title away from six different MSs, including some of the biggest names of the organization.

Fred Dame, who founded the US branch of the organization in 1986 and starred as an inquisitor in the movie "Somm", had his membership terminated. Bob Bath, who has taught generations of sommeliers as a professor at the Culinary Institute of America, did also, as did Drew Hendricks, co-founder of the influential Texsom conference.

他们实际上都没有在餐厅工作。Dame是一家品牌大使帕索·罗伯斯(Paso Robles)亨德里克斯(Hendricks)担任葡萄酒进口商的业务发展总监,直到丑闻破产后不久。目前尚不清楚他现在在做什么。除教学外,Bath还经营着一家葡萄酒进口公司。为什么他们中的任何一个实际上都需要成为MS?

实际上,在性骚扰丑闻破裂之后,该行业的一些年轻明星自愿放弃了女士别针,包括阿尔帕纳·辛格(Alpana Singh),帕斯卡琳·勒皮尔蒂(Pascaline Lepeltier)和劳拉·曼尼克(Laura Maniec Fiorvanti)。在美国获得MS头衔的172名人中,只有28名是女性:该组织负担不起那些备受瞩目的成员。

But they concluded they could not represent an organization that looked the other way while young female students were sexually harassed in a system that could only be described as patriarchal; entrenched men gave orders, and students' certification depended on test results that could easily be manipulated. In fact, two years before the sexual harassment scandal broke, the CMS had acheating scandal,对于不到5%的申请人通过的职业生涯测试,就不足为奇了。

Changing ways

的Court has reorganized itself quite a bit over the past year. A woman with the best name in the profession – Emily Wines – is now chair of the board of directors. There is now an Ethics and Professional Responsibility Committee. There's also an anonymous hotline for MS students to report the type of sexual harassment that led to the six MSs being kicked out this week. These are all good moves.

But really, Singh, Lepeltier and Fiorvanti made the best moves of all. The Court of Master Sommeliers is anachronistic. It requires students to memorize a huge amount of knowledge about obscure grape varieties and regions that may once have been good to know by heart, but now all of that knowledge is immediately accessible by smartphone.

Why get an MS, and not a Master of Wine? The latter title is designed for people who work in the wine trade at any level, with tests of knowledge and ability to identify wines blind similar to the MS exam. The MS exam adds a service component, and that's great, but very few MSs go on to use that training. They do all of their actual sommelier work before they earn the pin, and after that they act exactly the same as Masters of Wine, working as brand ambassadors or importers. They earn the wrong title for what they end up doing.

的only reason the Court of Master Sommeliers survived the sexual harassment scandal is that its members invested years of their lives and tens of thousands of dollars into earning their pin. If the Court disappears, there's a legitimate fear that their credential will be worth less. It's already devalued, but an MS is still someone who should have impressive wine knowledge.

然而,值得一提的是,Z世代和之后的MS证书是否有意义。我问法院现在有多少学生,并得知目前有764名活跃的侍酒师候选人。如果他们以通常的速度通过测试,那意味着有700多个正在浪费他们的时间和金钱。也许成功的30人也是如此。相比之下,据葡萄酒硕士研究所称,目前在葡萄酒硕士计划中只有376名学生。这些统计数据远离应有的统计。

的葡萄酒and restaurant worlds are changing rapidly. Traditional MS-type sommeliers seem most comfortable today in steakhouses, where they can help customers decide between 453 flavors of赤霞珠. Do you really need certification for that? Is an MS credential helpful at a restaurant that serves natural wines?

在电影索姆(Somm)中,四个女士候选人像弗拉特(Frat)男孩葡萄酒室一样,像大兄弟男孩一样,像夫人一样作为模特。任何看过它的人都不会对性骚扰指控感到惊讶。在电影结尾处,四个主演的索姆斯(Somms)中有两个获得了MS。达斯汀·威尔逊(Dustin Wilson)现在在New York;MW会更合适。丑闻破裂时,布莱恩·麦克林蒂(Brian McClintic)放弃了他的别针。他现在是一名顾问,除其他外,他还为巴塔哥尼亚提供了奇怪的天然葡萄酒。在拍摄索姆一年后,伊恩·库布尔(Ian Cauble)获得了女士。他现在经营着一个互联网葡萄酒零售俱乐部(也是MW的工作)。

杜林·普罗克特(Dlynn Proctor)是索姆(Somm)的四位女士候选人中唯一一位从未获得过别针的人。它伤害了他吗?看起来不像。他是Fantesca Wineryin St. Helena. He also taught classes at San Francisco Wine School, and I seriously doubt that any students asked to see his MS pin.

与此同时,Bob浴,他被剥夺了销w女士eek after being investigated by the Court regarding sexual harassment, is still teaching young students at the Culinary Institute of America. I have known Bob for years and I like him, but ... well, read that first sentence again. Like the other five, Bath does have 30 days to appeal the Court's judgment, and it should be pointed out that he was judged by a court of sommeliers, not a court of law.

我的吸引力是对可能考虑追求MS PIN的年轻学生。为什么?这是侍酒师拥有所有知识的时代,食客没有智能手机,而年轻的消费者可能对某些晦涩的白色感兴趣Burgundyrather than in a zero-zero red blend with a funny name. If you want to be a sommelier, do so while you have young knees that can handle long nights of floor service. If your goal is to move into a non-restaurant position, why not go for the MW? That's what it is designed for. Or don't get any pin at all and rely on your knowledge and passion, like Proctor.

对艾米丽葡萄酒和她的船员的荣誉是从坏演员那里夺走了别针。但是,整个剧院是侍酒师大师的宫廷,截然不同,而且也可能会推向地球。

To join the conversation, comment on our social media channels.

Recent Stories

查看全部

Cava Happy New Year

27年12月27日

葡萄酒作为投资选择

17年12月17日

基安蒂的顶级大步

15日至2021年
Never Miss Out
请继续关注我们的每周新闻通讯

Recent Stories

Cava Happy New Year

年轻饮酒者涌向有机葡萄酒

世界上最好的波尔多

Popping Wine's Price-Hike Myth

Which Whiskey Book for You?

世界上最好的波尔多混合物

Covid Clobbers南非葡萄酒再次

New Bordeaux Classification Heads to Court

的World's Best Syrahs

葡萄酒作为投资选择

香槟短缺开始咬人

基安蒂的顶级大步