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2021年11月9日,星期二

Pierre Guigui on the History of Organic Wine in France: "Conventional Production Costs More for the Community"



In America, Guigui is not a household word, but in France, many认识他他担任著名的Gault&Millau的葡萄酒编辑。他成为有机和生物动力的专家,并成为这些葡萄酒的冠军,开始了有机葡萄酒节和比赛在1996年的巴黎。当开创性的冒险活动开始时,有200多个生产者参加了比赛,这表明了那时运动的广泛性。

Today more than 13 percent of French vineyards are certified organic with more on the way. It's been estimated that more than 300 producers in Bordeaux alone are converting to organic certification this year.

I had the pleasure of interviewing Guigui for本文为Wine Business.com撰写必威二维码下载今年早些时候。

In order to help American readers understand more about the history of the now popular organic wine industry in France, I am sharing this article with you. It was published in the French wine magazine Vitisphere and, thanks to Google Translate, here it is in English.

您是否希望用法语阅读它,请参阅:https://www.vitisphere.com/actualite-95109-Avant-une-retraite-bien-occupee-Pierre-Guigui-fait-le-point-sur-le-developpement-des-vins-bio.htm

在美国,有些主题是有机葡萄酒状态的共同点 - 尽管这些生产商来自顶级葡萄酒的份额不成比例,但缺乏有机葡萄酒的理解(和欣赏)有机葡萄酒。传统葡萄酒 - 污染者不付款的事实,但纳税人会造成水污染和其他生态影响。

Boldingsare mine.

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27 years ago, you launched an organic wine fair, Amphores: was it visionary when you see the current growth of the category?

Pierre Guigui: "No matter how the wine is made, the winemaker can do whatever he wants, if the wine is good, it is good!" Thirty years ago, in the 90s, this watered down sentence was commonplace in the professional world where questions of ecology, the environment, the dangerousness of synthetic chemicals, additives, inputs, corrective oenology, industrialization, etc. were not relevant (and yet ...).

有时我们也可以听到:“前几天我品尝了有机葡萄酒,坦率地说,这真的很糟糕。”而且,经常说这句话的人在这一年中最多品尝了有机农业的两到三种葡萄酒(葡萄酒制作规格是在2012年(欧盟)正式化的)。为了形成一个普遍的意见,基于对我们的一些葡萄酒的欣赏似乎对我们来说是不可靠的,以及组织更详尽的品尝的想法,以便更好地了解这些有机葡萄酒的动机对我们来说似乎是必不可少的。

面对当时更异质的报价,这项竞争是否也是为了奖励优质有机葡萄酒吗?

我从未分享过这种观点。早在1996年,有机,生物动力甚至自然的某些名称就已经知道或在存在过程中。

In Alsace: Pierre Frick, Kreydenweiss and Weber. In Bordeaux Le Puy and Meylet.

在勃艮第:Dominique Derrain,Montchovet,Leroy,Vignes du Maine,Rateau和Giboulot。

在香槟:弗勒里。

在卢瓦尔(Loire):de l'ecu,cailloux du Paradis,laSansonnière,CouléeDeSerrant,Pierre和Catherine Breton。

在普罗旺斯:罗马宁,圣安妮和豪韦特。在罗纳(Rhône):Combier和La Canorgue。

所有这些葡萄酒生产的人都是已经练习“清洁剂”的“有机农业葡萄酒”的先驱,而从记忆中,有些人甚至以自然和 /或生物动力的方法进行了。

鉴于这一榜单,1996年200/250有机生产商中有机生产商的比例非常出色。而且,这也没有算出其他名字,例如Garelière,Gaillard for the Loire,甚至是波尔多的前卫,例如库尔森,Ouzoulias,RhôneJeanJean David etdesCèdres,甚至EugèneMeyer,也是第一个(最早的)(如果不是第一种)基于阿尔萨斯的法国生物动力学。

自然运动中的其他名称在有机景观中,但不一定在1996年获得认证,例如Marcel Lapierre,Pierre Foillard,YvonMétras(Beaujolais),Gramenon(Rhône)(Rhône),Pierre Overre Overnoy(Jura)和每年的Extension s'扩展名。享有声望的名字,伟大的才华,杰出的未知数,但工匠的葡萄酒生产商却几乎没有交流。有机葡萄酒一直很好,您只需要在上面放一个放大镜即可。

您如何看待当前有机葡萄酒的商业开发:期待已久的部署或对工业化的恐惧?

Organic will develop when it is accessible to as many people as possible. The greater the demand for this type of wine and food, the more production will turn to organic. This question is crucial, because organic production costs more for the end consumer, but conventional production costs more for the community. The costs of cleaning up are stratospheric.

清理水中硝酸盐的成本?根据可持续发展总监的研究,“每公斤70欧元,农药每公斤60,000至20万欧元”。

我们在这里讨论间接成本的概念(有时称为外部成本)。的确,比有机手工葡萄酒对社区的传统工业葡萄酒(对社区来说)要贵。

Without wishing to overwhelm with figures yet another example: "the additional estimated household expenditure, generated by this pollution linked to surpluses of nitrogen and pesticides of agricultural origin would lie at least in a range of between 1,005 and 1,525 million d. euros, including 640 to 1,140 million euros passed on to the water bill, representing between 7 and 12% of this bill on a national average.»这更不用说与疾病相关的费用等...

至于工业生物,对我而言,与工业化学品相比,它的污染物少。

您如何在这个风景中看到天然葡萄酒?

我认为每个人都受益于持续vagueness with non-organic natural wines, which sometimes claim to be more organic than organic, and which in fact are "out of control". Everyone does what they want and peuy, but使人们认为自己是有机的自然葡萄酒,没有认证,这仍然是一种欺骗。The consumer is no longer in this jumble of labels and self-proclamation. Unfortunately, to date you have found plain wines that are non-organic with SO2 levels that no one has checked. Fake natural wines remain for me a brake on the development of organic.

You are also involved in the association of Breton winegrowers: with climate change, does the future of French wines lie in new terroirs, such as Brittany?

葡萄藤一直存在于布列塔尼(Brittany)中,就像在紫红色中一样。甚至在全球变暖之前。它确实存在于香槟中,而阳光的速度并不是法国最高的。但是该地区发明了一种与气候相匹配的葡萄酒。在布列塔尼,我们可以谈论一个有促进成熟度的气候的更新。

这种布雷顿葡萄栽培一开始必须是有机的才能成为未来的一部分吗?

在布列塔尼定居的年轻人通常非常吸引有机产品。未来将证明这是否会转化为认证,但很可能。

You are not completely leaving the sector: what are your projects?

是的,如果我停止参加比赛,我不会离开葡萄酒世界。我在阿波盖(Apogée)经营“知道如何喝酒”系列。我正在组织一个贸易博览会“ Buvons Terroirs”,其中大约有五十个有机葡萄酒生产商,第一版将于11月22日。在其余的情况下,它是联合性的,例如6月的“ Buvons Pantin”节目,Breton Winegrowers,Breton Winegrowers,全新的“ Movis”协会,将葡萄酒和精神的记者和作者汇集在一起​​……忙碌的退休。

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